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THE MYRIAD COLOURS OF COLOMBO

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Have a long weekend coming up? The capital of Sri Lanka offers a perfect getaway.

The drive from Colombo airport past picturesque lagoons and canals, mangrove forests, and a stunning layout of the city captivates you from the word go.

As our car zooms ahead, the capital of Sri Lanka starts unravelling beautiful silhouettes at every turn. And it is no surprise that Colombo once (in a 2019 survey) topped the charts as the number one ‘must photograph’ travel destination.

Hearing stories from our chauffeur-guide, Marcus Fernando, about the time Buddhism was introduced here, we suddenly come upon a soaring edifice — the Lotus Tower, one of the most recent structures to adorn the Sri Lankan skyline.

Constructed in 2012, this lotus-shaped, 350m (1,150 ft)-tall tower symbolizes purity in Sri Lanka’s culture on the one hand and its development on the other. Built with Chinese aid, the top storey of the tower offers breathtaking views of the city.

Built mainly to function as a single transmission hub for telecommunications, digital TV, and radio, the top floor of the Tower will soon also house a revolving restaurant. “So, by the time you finish with your dessert, you will have completed one full round of the restaurant while getting amazing views of Colombo below.”

A short drive from the Lotus Tower takes us to the Independence Memorial Hall, built to commemorate the day Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) got its independence in 1948. This impressive hall takes inspiration from three major architectural styles dating back to the ancient Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa eras, and the more recent Kandyan kingdom.

When we leave, Marcus points to the building housing Radio Ceylon that for most Indians would hold many pleasant memories – of the much-loved programme, Binaca Geet Mala, compered by the inimitable Ameen Sayani. Listeners are now awaiting the publication of the now 90-year-old legend’s memoirs.

Humming tunes that ruled some of Sayani’s charts, we look forward to our evening – a night out at the hot and happening Bally’s Casino. Ruling the roost for over 27 years, this luxurious joint boasts over 100 gaming tables and 50 slot machines. As an official here says, “Bally’s is high on the itinerary of many Indians because travelling to Sri Lanka is very convenient and economical for them. And then, getting an e-visa or a visa on arrival is such a smooth process.”

It’s fun watching people try their luck, not resisting the temptation to overspend… This is despite the constant reminder by a recorded voice every few seconds: ‘Let’s close, no more bets’.

With an extra day, we take off for the Minneriya Elephant Reserve, which lies about 175 km away. The drive towards this lush home of the pachyderm is indeed scenic, and if lucky, you might even get to see some elephants on the highway itself. As Marcus informs us, we spotted two males who had “probably been driven out by the ‘matriarchs’ of the herd”. But, these elephants looked far from unhappy, feasting contentedly on the tall grass growing on the side of the road.

Open jeeps are available to take you inside the 8,890-hectare reserve. No sooner than our driver – skillfully tackling the uneven, muddy forest tracks – takes to the interiors than several herds of elephants come into view.

There are over 700 of them here, says the driver. And, in the dry season, the number could zoom up several times over when many more migrate here from the Wasgamuwa National Park in search of food, shelter, and shade.

Seeing elephants of various sizes – from gigantic to tiny ones prancing around their mothers is a delight. Despite the number of tourists photographing/filming them, the elephants looked far from perturbed – some even ventured close enough to our vehicle to give us some up-close and personal shots.

Besides elephants, the Reserve is also home to hyenas, foxes, sambar deer, leopards, sloth bears, purple-faced langur, and toque macaque. This birdwatcher’s paradise also lets you spot quite a variety – from the great white pelican to grey heron, grey hornbill, little cormorants and painted storks. The list of Colombo delights could go on.

The author of the article, Purnima Sharma, has long been a journalist with the mainstream media and a broadcaster with All India Radio. Currently, she is now enjoying her stint as an independent writer. The Delhi-based journalist is happiest writing about people, places and anything that touches the heart.  

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